Showing posts with label pompeii. Show all posts
Showing posts with label pompeii. Show all posts

Saturday, 20 April 2013

Pompeii and Herculaneum at the British Museum and the Roman Finds Group conference

It was a case of Pompeii overload yesterday as I attended the Roman Finds Group's conference at the British Museum and went into the related Pompeii and Herculaneum exhibition not once, but twice during the day.

To mention the excellent conference first, its not my intention to break down every word said by every speaker, but here are some of the more thought-provoking things they said, as I saw it.

Dr Paul Roberts (British Museum) - 'Life and Death in Pompeii and Herculaneum'

Dr Roberts is the lead curator of the exhibition and gave an honest and personal account of the displays, to which he has clearly committed a lot of time and love. As you'll read below, I think he's pulled it off magnificently.  His pleas to Roman specialists to try and understand the limitations and intended audience of museum exhibition interpretation was particularly familiar to anyone who has been involved in constructing displays.

It was also interesting to note that 95% of the exhibition's content has come from Italy (much of it leaving the country for the first time), and that this is the first exhibition to feature both Pompeii and Herculaneum in the title, giving the smaller site an equal billing that it so richly deserves.

Professor Ray Laurence (University of Kent) - 'Pompeii: from City Streets to People and Houses'

Professor Laurence took us back outside the houses to the streets that surround them, and certainly made me reflect that, in my ignorance, I had always taken a very 21st Century view of streets and roads - seeing them very much as simply places for traffic to travel down.  An increase in scholarship over the last decade or so has started to change our understanding of the role and use of streets, not just in the way that carts and pack animals used or, just as importantly, didn't use them, but also in how the location of shops, water features and shrines indicate how the streetscape was a place for socialising and the teaching of children, and certainly not just somewhere for vehicles to trundle down.

Alex Croom (Tyne and Wear Museums) - 'Housework in the homes of Pompeii and Herculaneum'

Alex Croom looked back inside people's houses, to the furniture and evidence of household activities.  This stems from her own research in recreating the furniture for the interior of the various buildings reconstructed at Arbeia Roman fort in South Shields.  Issues such as the use of chests and cupboards for longer and shorter term storage (including practical issues such as how sticky used oil lamps become), the fashion of having crisp laundered creases in clothes and even what the Romans stuffed their mattresses with were all tackled.  Even the issue of toilets, chamber pots and dealing with cess pits were discussed - a dirty thought but of course a necessity of life and a practical issue every household had to deal with.

Dr Andrew Jones (University of York) - 'One pot and its story'

In a shorter talk, Dr Jones introduced the 'AAPP' - the Anglo American Project in Pompeii, and he was the first of a number of speakers talking about their involvement with that project.  The AAPP has been re-excavating Insula VI.1, just inside the Herculanean gate (at the top left of the plan below).


Dr Jones' talk focussed around a single amphora, broken during the earthquake of AD62/3 and buried when the bar it was in was repaired.  Inside the broken amphora was a brown soil, which when sieved revealed thousands of tiny fish bones - evidence that its contents were 'garum', the fermented fish sauce the Romans were so fond of.  Analysis of the bones and ceramic fabric has revealed that the sauce contained bonito and sardinella fish, and was made on the Spanish / Portuguese border.

Dr Ria Berg (Institutum Romanum Finlandiae) - 'Did all Pompeiian women have mirrors?'

Dr Berg's research has investigated the frequency and distribution of mirrors and other 'mundus muliebris' (toilet articles) in Pompeii.  She discovered that most mirrors were found in domestic contexts, rather than as possessions gathered by fleeing inhabitants and discovered with their bodies.  Only around half of the houses she studied had mirrors, and these usually only contained one.  Only the largest houses had more than one mirror (such as the House of the Menander and the House of Paquius Proculus).  The location of these mirrors revealed that they were usually stored with other toiletry articles, but in more general storage cupboards rather than in bedroom settings.

Equally interesting was the number of mirrors found in buildings that might have served as brothels ('luparnar'), suggesting some form of communal use, or represent the personal grooming of the girls working there.

David Griffiths (University of Leicester) - 'From dusk 'til dawn: lamps and lighting in Pompeii'

David Griffiths was the second speaker involved in the AAPP project, and his research centres around the socio-cultural and economic implications of lighting in the Roman world.  His study of the lamps from Insula VI.1, specifically those from the House of the Surgeon, demonstrated the growth in artificial light throughout the 1st Century BC.  His work in progress on the amount of olive oil required to light certain homes, business and public buildings is a fascinating step into the more practical realities of keeping the many oil lamps required to light a busy town burning.

Dr Hilary Cool (Barbican Research Associates) - 'Becoming Consumers: the inhabitants of a Pompeiian insula and their things'

Dr Cool's talk opened by challenging just how representative the fabulous material remains from Pompeii are of Roman towns across the empire.  By looking at the objects in use at the point of the eruption, a unique picture of older objects still in use combined with emerging fashions and technology can be gained.

This was demonstrated through the study of glass vessels and loomweights from Insula VI.1.  The glass vessel assemblage showed the emergence of blown glass and a greater variety of forms in the years leading up to the eruption.  In the case of loomweights, the assemblage suggested that, in contrast to the glass, older warp weighted loom technology was still in use at a time when it had been superseded in other places, even in Britain.  However, rather than being seen as evidence of Pompeii being backwards, this is evidence of the traditional role of the Roman matron as a provider of cloth for her family, and these antique loomweights therefore served an important purpose, but not one directly related to their function.  They were symbols of respectability and tradition.

Dr Richard Hobbs (British Museum) - 'Small change in ancient Pompeii'

The conference was entertaining completed by Dr Hobbs, another speaker involved in the AAPP project.  The coinage recovered from the excavations at Insula VI.1 have presented a large and unique assemblage of 1,500 coins, particularly important for determining exactly what coinage was in circulation at the time of the eruption.

The most fascinating element of the talk, though, was the series of coins of the 2nd Century BC from Marseilles (Massilia) and Ibiza (Ebusus).  These were imported into Campania, possibly even in one large, deliberate shipment, but then copied locally.  The Ebusus coinage is particularly interesting as it features imagery of the Egyptian dwarf god Bes.  Dr Hobbs proposed that this image may have been chosen because of Bes' associations with wine and merriment, and that these early coins were being introduced to be used in such contexts.



So there you have it.  A very well organised conference with a great range of entertaining speakers which complemented the themes of the exhibition well, and provided a wonderful insight into the new research being carried out in these most fascinating of archaeological sites.  Huge thanks are due to the Roman Finds Group for arranging it.

The British Museum's exhibition 'Life and Death in Pompeii and Herculaneum' was one that I've been dying to see ever since I first heard about it being planned through the museum grapevine about 3 years ago. I'm delighted to say that it lived up to my every expectation - which not every well-hyped exhibition does.


The first thing to say is that the object selection truly is stunning. The range of iconic objects is second to none, and it must have been a nightmare transporting and installing some of them, let alone managing issues such as environmental controls and security.

Chief among these awkward displays has to be the reconstructed garden fresco from the Villa Arianna at Boscoreale.  The effect is wonderful, and reminded me of the display of the garden frescoes from Livia's vill at Prima Porta in Rome's Palazzo Massimo.

The second triumph is simply the approach and layout. Pompeii and Herculaneum are far too often talked about in fatalistic terms, but this exhibition is about life rather than death. The decision to focus on the Roman home was a brave one, as it means that many facets of the sites are omitted entirely (I don't remember a single brothel reference or mention of the amphitheatre and its famous riot for instance) but it works wonderfully. The use of the layout of Pompeii's House of the Tragic Poet as a model for displaying artefacts in domestic room groupings, with effective but understated set dressing and sound effects worked a treat, and gave the objects from different houses a unity that most books on Pompeii struggle to achieve.

The inevitable Pompeiian body casts were there of course (including the headlining dog), but were wisely limited in number and handled very sensitively, and the interpretation and selections of possessions displayed alongside them made their stories touchingly human.

Picture of a dog at Pompeii recovered from a plaster cast

The carbonised wooden furniture from Herculaneum was perhaps the star of the show, as even going to visit the sites doesn't present the opportunity to see them, which is a real shame. The baby's cradle rightly attracts a lot of attention, but the whole selection of tables, chests and decorative fragments are mind blowing to those of us used to Romano-British archaeology, and it takes a conscious effort to remind yourself just how old they are, and that they're not replicas.



There has been a fashion in British Museum exhibitions over the last few years to have a video presentation of some kind, but the one shown here is definitely a more engaging and graphically inventive presentation than ever before, with some nice playing with words to describe the progress of the eruption, while at the same time linking the ancient city of Pompeii with the modern inhabitants of the Bay of Naples.

So did I enjoy it? Absolutely.  Will I go back and see it again? Hopefully.  Is it as good as going and seeing the sites for yourself?  Not quite, but it is one of the most engaging exhibitions the British Museum has put on in years and deserves all of the plaudits it receives.


Tuesday, 22 January 2013

Fresco and graffiti discoveries at the Colosseum

I admit to being a few days late in covering this news, but what the hell.  Better late than never.

Work at Rome's Colosseum has revealed traces of previously undiscovered frescoes and graffiti.  I say 'work' because most media sources seem to have described the discovery as happening 'during restoration'.  Whether it actually was pure restoration (i.e. an attempt to restore something to its original appearance) that was happening rather than any other act of conservation such as the removal of accretions intended to preserve and stabilise the remains seems unclear.  But I digress into pickiness...



It seems that two things have been discovered - firstly evidence for formal paint schemes covering walls of a passageway leading to some of the lower class seating areas, and secondly graffiti that said lower class visitors have scratched into that paint scheme.

The decorative paint scheme raises interesting questions about the rest of the building, and to what extent such a paint scheme might have originally covered the iconic structure.  The presence of such a decorative scheme shouldn't surprise us, of course.  We have an odd tendency to see the past in monochrome and forget that many things were originally painted or gilded - classical statuary being a pertinent example.

The paint scheme in this instance seems to have been very fitting for the setting, with laurels, arrows, victory wreaths and even erotic scenes.  In case you're wondering why that last one is apt, there is certainly evidence to suggest that long days at the arena could lead to imaginative ways to kill time despite the crowds.  Although he was writing about a day at the chariot races, the 1st Century poet Ovid showed that his mind was on other than the spectacle,


"You, on the right, Sir - please be careful.
Your elbow's hurting the lady.

And you in the row behind - sit up Sir!
Your knees are digging into her back

My dear, your dress is trailing on the ground.
Lift it up - or there you are, I've done it for you

What mean material to hide those legs!
Yes, the more one looks the meaner it seems.

Legs like Atalanta,
Milanion's dream of bliss

A painter's model for Diana
running wilder than the beasts.

My blood was on fire before.  What happens now?
You're fuelling a furnace, flooding the Red Sea.

I'm sure that lightweight dress is hiding
still more delightful revelations.

But what about a breath of air while we wait?
This programme will do as a fan.

Is it really as hot as I feel? Or merely my imagination
fired by your sultry presence?"

The Colosseum isn't the first amphitheatre to reveal traces of paintings.  When the arena at Pompeii was first uncovered, a fresco running around the curtain wall was revealed, framing the action on the sand with images of fighters, referees and slave attendants.  Despite fading soon after discovery and now no longer visible, it clearly demonstrates how incomplete even the best of our surviving remains can be, and how major elements of the ancient experience can be lost to us.



The graffiti discovery is less of a surprise, considering how prevalent such scrawls are across the Roman world, and that an amphitheatre would seem a logical place for people to feel inspired to write on.  Although I haven't seen any detailed descriptions of what the graffiti consisted of, early reports have suggested palm fronds and crowns (symbols of victory) and the word 'VIND', referring to victory or revenge.  

It will be interesting to see what further details emerge as the current discoveries are further studied, and more of the area 'restored'.

Saturday, 29 December 2012

Travels with Li Dongni - Pompeii, Italy (December 2012)

Writing travel posts about the really famous sites of the world is definitely harder than writing about some Han Dynasty watchtower in the middle of China's Taklamakan desert. Lots of people know the site, have been there themselves and have seen a dozen TV documentaries about it. Not to mention the T-shirt collection...

So like most travel posts, this one will have some of my favourite images and talk about some of the quirks I found whilst there rather than attempt to provide an in depth interpretation of Pompeii. If you want one of those, then you could do far worse than pick up Mary Beard's wonderfully engaging book on life in the ancient city.

Our visit to Pompeii occurred during a 6 day trip to Naples to visit a friend and colleague of my wife, who is local and has a passionate (and almost encyclopaedic) knowledge of her local heritage. Good news for us then!

We headed out early to ensure we had a full day to look around, but almost didn't get there at all as two 'Circumvesuviana' trains in succession were cancelled without explanation. Even the locals were getting confused and a little ratty as time passed.  Thankfully one finally arrived and we got to Pompeii slightly later than planned, but at least we were there.

One good thing about visiting in December is of course that you miss the major crowds, and we were doubly blessed with clear blue skies after torrential rain the night before. I had my trusty list of essential properties and buildings to visit, so after a quick look around the forum, we set off up the main street - the Via D'Abbondanza - towards the amphitheatre at the other end of the town, taking note of various buildings and the wonderful cobbled streets, and funky stepping stones, on the way.  Speaking of the latter, it's amazing that broken ankles weren't a major problem in Pompeii!










Beside the Forum is an open storage area, with an interesting array of amphorae and some of Pompeii's famous plaster bodies.  These are the result of the 19th Century realisation that the bodies of the unfortunate inhabitants caught up in the disaster had left perfect body-shaped voids in the layers of ash as they had decomposed.  By pouring plaster into these voids,  'models' (complete with skeletons) of the individuals could be obtained.





A small number of other such bodies are visible across the site, though not as many as you might imagine.










The amphitheatre is famous for a brawl that took place there in AD59, and for being the first Roman amphitheatre built in stone.  The brawl was so severe that gladiatorial games were banned in the city for ten years.  A wonderful fresco from the city shows the riot in progress, as well as the distinctive staircases into the seating.








We then wandered back through the city, hopping from one famous dwelling to the next, taking in the streetscape as we went.  Sadly, unlike Herculaneum, the huge majority of properties were closed off so many famous sights, such as the House of Octavius Quarto, the Garden of the Fugitives and the House of Menander had to go unseen.  Don't start crying for us just yet, though, as many fantastic elements were open.

No trip to Pompeii is complete without a trip to the brothel.  Like many, I subscribe to the opinion that the quantity of brothels in Pompeii has been massively overemphasised, and this structure probably represents the only 'formal' brothel in the city, dodgy backrooms in inns notwithstanding.  Having never been to a modern brothel, I have no grounds for comparison, but its fair to say that the ancient example definitely feels like a seedy place!










An interesting insula in the south of the city contains two theatres (one larger theatre and a smaller, covered one) and the famous Temple of Isis.  Although the theatres aren't the largest or most impressive I've seen (that title has to go to Aspendos in Turkey), the urban setting gives them a wonderful context as they nestle within the tight streets.  The Temple of Isis is far from its former glory but the sense of an urban temple within a walled precinct is unique and the frescoes, which are now in the Naples museum, are wonderful.










A highlight of any Roman site is the baths, but the examples at Pompeii (and Herculaneum too for that matter) are truly staggering, and provide a wonderfully evocative impression of the public bathing experience, though the small size of some rooms suggests that it could get very crowded.  There are three bath complexes in Pompeii - the Suburban baths, the Stabian baths and the Forum baths.  The first set of images below are of the Stabian baths, surrounding an attractive open palaestra (exercise yard).












The Forum baths are much smaller, but have recently reopened following renovation and are notable for the little Atlas-like figures holding up the columns of the clothes cubicles in the men's apodyterium.








One of the famous houses in Pompeii is the fantastically named 'House of the Tragic Poet', a house which, by no means enormous, contained many high quality mosaics and frescoes, often depicting mythological scenes.  Its most famous feature is the mosaic at the threshold, warning visitors to 'beware of the dog'.  Sadly, the mosaic was hemmed in by chicken wire and in strong shadow, making it difficult to appreciate, let alone photograph.







The largest house in Pompeii is known as the 'House of the Faun', after a statue found in the atrium, now in the Naples Museum.  The pavement outside the house bears a welcoming 'HAVE' mosaic, but the highlight is the Alexander mosaic, found in a room surrounding the garden.  A replica is in situ (not highlighted as such to any unsuspecting visitors not aware that the original has been removed), as the original is also in the Naples Museum.







Alongside houses and public buildings, Pompeii contained a variety of business premises.  The images below show some of the bakeries and thermopolia (streetside hot food stalls) to be found as you wander the streets.





One of most illuminating aspects of Pompeii's preservation is the amount of graffiti that has survived.  Although the surviving frescoes of mythological scenes are wonderful, the graffiti, electoral slogans, lararia (shrines found in houses and shops) and shop signs add a level of personal detail that nowhere else in the Roman world can match.  Sadly, a number of the better examples were hidden behind scaffolding during our visit, but many were still visible, protected behind perspex.  Having them retained in situ, rather than in a museum context really helps to bring the site to life.  Also pictured below are some of the carved signs to be found on the streets, including some lucky phalluses (if you like this sort of thing, compare them to the ones from north west England I wrote about here).
















Like most visitors, we left Pompeii via the Heculaneum gate, walking past the rows of mausolea which were once common sights lining the roads out of all Roman towns.





The final stop on any visit to Pompeii has to be the Villa of the Mysteries, to be found a few hundred yards outside of the walls.  This large house is famous for the frescoes that give it its name - the images of the Dionysic mysteries that adorn the walls of the triclinium (dining room).  To view these required peering through wooden slatted windows which was far from perfect, but the quality of the artwork and its survival is impressive, to say nothing of the light they have shed on a secretive Roman cult.











Pompeii is certainly an unusual place to visit, but I confess its only now, looking back, that the amazing scale and preservation really sinks in.  While there, its almost difficult to get your mind to realise exactly what you're seeing.  One of the hardest things to do while I was there was to correlate the physical remains with the lives of the individuals who lived there, and whom I'd read about before visiting.  I wonder, as the interpretation on site is so slim, just how much general tourists really understand about what they are seeing.  Perhaps, though, that's the beauty of Pompeii - its one of the few archaeological sites in the world that actually does speak for itself.





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